The Wessel Islands

After motoring through the Gulgari Rip, we turned south and anchored in Guruliya Bay on Raragala Island, one of the southern most islands of the Wessels. We had originally planned on anchoring in the first bay north of the Rip on Guluwuru Island, but Terry and Leonie on Sens de La Vie who were a bit ahead of us checked it out and reported that it was a bit rolly and unprotected. So we diverted to our plan B and headed `south.

A very pretty little bay, we enjoyed the evening here entertaining Terry and Leonie for dinner. Just as we had heard Border Force buzz Brian and Sandra when they were here the night before, so too did we get a call from the plane.

‘Yacht just overflown, yacht just overflown, yacht just overflown, this is Border Force, Border Force, Border Force. Over’

We had our AIS turned off, so they didn’t have our boat name, and they wanted to know who we were, and who the other boat was. We’ve had a number of calls from Border Force along the way. It’s good to know they’re out there.

We were keen to explore the Wessel Islands further and decided to head to near the top of the northern island, Marchinbar Island, and anchor in Jensen Bay. I had read in one of the guidebooks that there was some Aboriginal rock art there that we thought we’d try to find.

And so the following morning we set off, motor sailing with the headsail in light winds and calm, aqua water. It was a fair distance to travel but we made good time, picking up the current towards the end of the passage.

We were trolling the lure as we sailed, and the rod pinged not long after it was put out. Usually Matt brings the fish in, but I’d said I wanted to have a go this time. Holy moly, it was a big one. He didn’t fight all that much, but it was still hard work on my lower back. When we got him to the boat, we could see that it was a magnificent spanish mackerel, and he’d actually been foul hooked on the top of his head.

Getting him safely onto the boat, we measured him at 98 centimetres, our biggest mackerel to date. Matt set about filleting him before we reached the anchorage. Dinner for days!!

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Arriving in Jensen Bay, we approached our chosen anchorage. The bay shoaled steeply, so, feeling like a catamaran, we slowly edged closer and closer to the rocks until we dropped anchor. Keen to explore and hopefully find the rock art, we immediately dropped our tender and went ashore about 4.30pm.

Marchinbar Island is a truly spectacular place. It is up there with the prettiest scenery we’ve seen on this trip. We wandered all over the north part of the bay, searching for the art. All we had to go on was the fairly vague description in the guidebook: ‘Aboriginal rock art under overhanging outcrops depicting contact with the Macassan traders from across the Arafura Sea to the north.’

There were a lot of overhanging outcrops and we searched them all. Crawling on our tummies, and lying on our backs, we peered up at the rocks, hoping to discover the artwork. But although we searched and searched, it was to no avail. We didn’t find the mentioned artwork. I did come across some handprints, though.

Although we didn’t see the rock art, we had an amazing afternoon exploring. The views were incredible everywhere we walked. The overhanging outcrops were made up of incredible stripey coloured rocks and inland there was tiny chunks of metal, bauxite I think, scattered over the ground.

As we were walking along one section, we were suddenly startled by a huge osprey flying out of the rocks. Looking up, Matt exclaimed, ‘Oh look, there’s the nest’ and going up to investigate, he found a newly hatched chick and an egg in the nest. We only had a very brief look as we didn’t want to upset the parents who were flying circles around the nest high in the sky, squawking loudly at us.

Unfortunately Matt didn’t have his camera with him, so we decided we’d definitely come back the following day. It was nearing sunset and was one of those times when the light was absolutely perfect, ‘the magic hour,’ photographers call it. Matt was cursing not bringing his camera. I took some photos with my phone, and although they’re pretty good, they can’t compare with his proper camera.

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As we reluctantly headed back to the yacht before it became too dark, we were treated to a spectacular sunset. The vibrant colours seemed to hang in the sky forever. It really had been an amazing day!

Although people did live here thousands of years ago, the Wessel Islands are currently uninhabited and we didn’t see a single other soul the entire time we were there. On our second day we explored right around Jensen Bay, walking down the length of the beach and venturing inland a little. It was a still and sunny morning, incredibly beautiful and the vibrant colours of the water, sand, sky, rocks and trees contrasting with each other were just amazing.

Walking inland towards the lagoon we found these unmistakeable croc tracks going up and down the beach. Comparing the size of our footprints with the croc’s footprint was pretty sobering. We didn’t see any crocs but it was a good reminder that they are definitely out there!

There was quite a lot of bird life and Matt took some brilliant photos. Here are some of his best. Check out the ospreys below; one has caught a fish and the other has a small native marsupial.

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Late afternoon we headed back to the rocks to say hello to the ospreys again. Lo and behold, this time there were two chicks in the nest. Matt took a few quick snaps and we retreated.

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We continued searching for the rock art in several other locations, but unfortunately couldn’t find it. The wind had picked up, causing choppy water and waves in the bay and we both got soaking wet as we drove the tinny around. We still weren’t cold though!

The Wessel Islands, ‘the forgotten isles’ are truly a well kept secret, and one of the most beautiful places we’ve had the privilege of visiting. We couldn’t wait to see what other wonders the Northern Territory coast was hiding.

Land really is the best art.

Andy Warhol